As a lot because the Underground Gourmand loves an excellent egg on a roll, is there any breakfast meals value a voluntary hour-long wait within the rain? Within the hope of answering that query, we joined slightly group of egg-sandwich aficionados and food-line addicts outdoors Chefs Club Counter for its grand opening, and the New York debut of Eggslut, the a lot ballyhooed egg-sandwich model from L.A.
First in a line that ultimately ran to 20 or so was a lady named Robyn, who stated that when it got here to egg sandwiches, she might take them or depart them, however was actually there to select up an order for her food-critic daughter — who presumably wouldn’t be caught lifeless ready outdoors within the rain for a sandwich at 6:45 within the morning. Put Robyn down for Mom of the Yr.
A person named Scott sporting a wool cap, waxed-cotton jacket, and an enormous digital camera sidled up round 7:15. “I’m from Gothamist,” he stated. “Are you all right here for Eggslut?” “Sure,” stated the gang. “Superior,” stated Scott, who proceeded to interview a few of the individuals in line. Pattern questions: Why are you right here? What time did you get right here? Are you frightened you’re going to be late for work? Have you ever ever eaten an Eggslut sandwich earlier than? Have you ever ever eaten an egg sandwich, interval? How previous are you?
At 7:45 sharp, a employees member dressed like a French sailor in a striped Breton shirt and sneakers invited us to return in out of the rain. It was like Willy Wonka giving the go-ahead sign to Charlie Bucket and the gang to storm the Chocolate Manufacturing unit.
The ordering system, we discovered upon getting into this pleasure palace, is Shake Shack type (as are the paper jackets and cardboard containers the sandwiches are available): You place your order at one counter, pay, acquire a vibrating pager, then decide up your meals when it’s prepared at a second counter reverse the open kitchen.
After watching Scott report Robyn’s response upon choosing up her to-go bag, after which take some photographs of one other lady who was photographing sandwiches herself to publish on Instagram, we unwrapped our personal hard-earned Eggslut booty.
So how was it already, you ask?
The signature sandwich, the Fairfax ($eight), was wonderful — a pile of chive-flecked eggs as masterfully scrambled into tender and tiny curds as any the U.G. has ever tasted, plus cheddar, sriracha mayo, and candy caramelized onion (reduce into little items, in order that they weren’t off-puttingly stringy), all of it coming collectively in beautiful concord on an Eric Kayser roll. The brand new–for–New York Soho Salmon ($12), a kind of egg sandwich meets Sunday bagel brunch, is almost nearly as good. Along with a fried egg and silky strips of fish, there’s a tangy white sauce subbing for cream cheese, slightly melted Havarti for additional richness, and a smattering of brightly flavored pickled mustard seeds that pop in your mouth like fish roe.
Though these California imports can’t be criticized for stability and taste, they each get docked some extent for being barely unwieldy. We blame the bun: although impressively mild and ethereal, with a cool and creamy crumb that’s virtually spongy, it flaunts a barely stiff, although micro-thin, crust. And, as it’s with burgers, when the surface of the bun is even barely more durable to chew into than the filling, you might have a little bit of an issue. You’ve got what is understood in sandwich circles as a heightened squeeze-out issue, the place the fillings squirt out the edges if you chomp the sandwich. (No offense to M. Kayser, whose coaching prioritized baguettes over breakfast sandwiches.)
That, admittedly, is nitpicking. Eggslut’s egg sandwiches exhibit polished egg cookery and considerate development; and although they could not break any breakfast-sandwich floor, they make high-quality additions to our already thriving egg-on-a-roll scene. You won’t have to go to L.A. to eat one, nevertheless it’s value a visit to Soho.